The stock assist spring that comes with the cars listed above results in extremely poor clutch feel.
The feel is vague and effort linear throughout the stroke of the pedal masking the actual start of the friction zone/engagement point.
In the long run, clutch disc wear is increased because of needless clutch slipping while trying to find the engagement point.
By replacing the stock spring with the one in this listing, clutch pedal feedback is greatly improved.
The pedal now has a progressive action, with low effort needed at the bottom (near the floor) of the pedal stroke, and increasing effort as the pedal is raised.
The actual characteristics of the pressure plate are now readily felt.
Because of this, clutch control is much more precise.
No more guessing where it might start to grab.
This listing is for one (1) replacement clutch pedal assist spring.
Manufactured by CSC
Free length: 2.
500"
Inner diameter: .
860"
Installation Instructions
Tools needed:
** Safety Glasses (highly recommended)
* some means of lighting up the area under the dash - I use a 12V heavy duty portable lantern
* Needle nose pliers - need a medium size tip to grab the C clip
* small flat blade screw driver
* a mat of some sort to sit on next to the car
Using the small screw driver, rotate the C clip so that it's oriented as in the pic - opening towards the front of the car.
Using the needle nose pliers, grab at the center of the clip (circled in red above) and pull straight out.
DO NOT REMOVE the top clip/pin, it's not necessary for this mod and is difficult to reinstall.
At this point, the assembly is under load and the pin will not come out.
You will need to depress and hold the pedal to the floor in order to unload the spring and be able to slide the pin to the left, out of the clevis.
You don't need to remove the pin entirely from the assembly, it just needs to clear the U shaped bracket.
A helper may be useful.
I usually depress (and hold) the pedal with the left hand, while working the pin out with the right.
Once the pin is cleared of the bracket, with the pedal still depressed, pull back out on the entire spring(s)/clevis assembly to remove, replace with weaker main spring and reassemble.
The small top spring and hat gets reused.
The pedal will have to be held to the floor in order to get the clevis to engage the bracket.
It's a bit tricky, but take your time getting everything aligned.
Some might find it easier to get the clevis on the bracket first, then slide the pin in.
I usually have the pin partially started in the clevis before reinstalling/aligning.
Sliding the pin in after the fact is actually more difficult because there's limited room to get the pin in (from the left).
The important thing to remember is that the pedal HAS to be to the floor to unload the spring before any pins are removed.
It's under significant tension and can fly out causing injury/bodily harm if removed forcefully with the pedal not fully depressed.
This only applies to the pin, not the C clip.
After the pin has been pushed all the way through, you can release the pedal.
Reinstall the C clip by holding it in the middle with the pliers and push straight onto the pin.
If the pliers are not perpendicular to the middle of the clip, it will be difficult to apply force without the clip rotating.
The entire procedure shouldn't take more than 5 minutes to do.
It will take much longer to read and understand these instructions than to actually do this.
Most take a day or two to get accustomed to the new sensitivity.
This was the first modification I made to my G37 6MT within a week of purchase and haven't looked back.
No doubt there is excessive clutch wear with the stock arrangement because of difficulty in detecting the friction zone.
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